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admin
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« Reply #90 on: February 26, 2009, 12:12:15 PM » |
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If we took over production then there's really no possibility that it would be available in a variety of colors. That kind of flexibility is possible when doing it by hand, but that isn't how we'd want to handle it. That's the kicker... we would have to make hundreds of these things for it to be viable and I'm skeptical we would have demand for that. More research required.
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John_H
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« Reply #91 on: March 02, 2009, 11:15:15 AM » |
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The additional instructions for the clock-set switch fix with the Bumpon can be found at http://somesmart.info/BumponInstructions.pdfI'm sending these small, clear rubber feet (I include a spare with each) to those who have ordered the LED kit from me in the past and I will include them with any kits that ship from this point on. My printer decided to stop using its printhead for black ink a couple days ago so I'm figuring out printing alternatives to avoid writer's cramp from these keyboard-adapted hands. I'll have the url above (but little else) printed on the sheet included in the envelope used to secure the bumpons and keep them from being "bumpy" in the postal processing equipment. You'll have them soon! Any comments on the pdf are appreciated, perhaps to ccleds@johnhandwork.com to avoid cluttering the thread. Thanks!
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Horseman
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« Reply #92 on: April 22, 2009, 02:46:42 PM » |
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Intocoasters,
Did you (or anyone) ever determine what was causing the cruise to get fried?
Just curious!
Alex
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John_H
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« Reply #93 on: April 22, 2009, 05:16:17 PM » |
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While not related specifically to intocoaster's units, there was one incident that was oddly familiar. One person's Smart went into a "limp home" mode, noted by the traction and engine lights on. When he had the car reset (long battery disconnect) and working fine, the LED wasn't on. It turned out the LED connector came loose after hitting the strong bump that caused this temporary problem. If the LED was disconnected, there's a possibility that the disconnect caused the limp-home mode.
Looking at things further, if the cable wasn't attached to the existing harness with the included wire tie, the LED cable head with a small amount of exposed metal *could* hit a grounded part of the car. It turned out the small exposed metal of the LED connector was the direct 5V feed from the cruise, not the resistor limited cathode drive side for the LED (I'm assuming the resistor is on that side).
To reduce any possible problems from not fixing the LED cable to the existing wiring harness, I'm now adding additional insulation in the form of heat-shrink tubing around the connector head so this kind of accidental disconnect and short won't occur. I'd happily send a couple lengths of heat shrink (simply shrunk with a lighter) to anyone who has an LED kit and wants the added confidence of eliminating the exposed metal. With the LED cable affixed to the existing wiring harness, however, I don't see it as a problem.
Intocoaster's LEDs weren't from my kit but the symptoms are similar to the one oddity that's been brought to my attention, an oddity that didn't have lasting repercussions.
- John
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intocoasters
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« Reply #94 on: April 23, 2009, 12:07:33 AM » |
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Hi Alex,
I do not have a definite answer to your question. Hopefully Steven can elaborate.
What I do know is that when I sent the unit to be tested Steven told me it was dead... as in DEAD dead. If I understand what he told me, he could not communicate with the board at all... no power up, no respnonse, nothing.
I did send him the red and yellow LEDs along with their packaging - I do not know if that helped him troubleshoot anything or not. Maybe the yellow LED was bad - I don't know.
I got a replacement cruise and wouldn't you know it.... It had the 'wiper syndrome' LOL.
I am afraid that is all I know about the fried black box. I'd be eager to hear if Steven has any new info.
Hi John,
It does sound similar, except I had an unresponsive pedal. I am glad that the problem you described was easily fixed and they did not have to go thru an unistall and reinstall. I must say, I can swap those pins out in no time at all now!
Eric
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wizard of ahs
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« Reply #95 on: April 23, 2009, 05:53:22 AM » |
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Just get Steve's "jumper plug" and you won't have to change out the pins 
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admin
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« Reply #96 on: April 23, 2009, 09:21:07 AM » |
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If Intocoasters' unit was the one fried one we've had returned then yes, it was completely toasted and unrepairable. The main microchip was shorted out. My strongest advice would be to make sure this LED modification is done with the battery disconnected and the switch cable unplugged from the cruise box when performing the modification and to double check that all exposed wires and leads are properly insulated from one another.
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John_H
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« Reply #97 on: April 23, 2009, 02:42:06 PM » |
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For the LED kit, however, while it's still a good suggestion to disconnect the battery I've taken great care to minimize opportunity to to do anything that might be detrimental to the cruise control or the instrument cluster. If one uses insulated wire clippers then there is no body contact with any of the circuits at all. Manually hand-wiring in LEDs opens up a whole other set of issues.
An added benefit to disconnecting the battery is that the instrument cluster's power and signals are well controlled for the connector disconnect and reconnect.
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mvaldes
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« Reply #98 on: April 23, 2009, 03:47:37 PM » |
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John, your post is probably perfectly clear to someone who speaks tech, but I really don't understand what you're describing. Did the disconnect happen at the LED in the instrument cluster or at one of the points where the dash LED was connected to the original cruise control switch wiring? And, where are you putting the heat shrink "safety insurance" covering. (I've got plenty of it lying around, so if you think it's a prudent thing to do, please tell me where it should go and I'll put some on.)
Thanks,
Michael
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John_H
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« Reply #99 on: April 23, 2009, 05:32:33 PM » |
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The issue was the LED connector at the instrument cluster. You can see that the connector ends on the right without the heat shrink could - if pulled out due to a hard bump with no wire tie to hold it to the existing wiring harness - possibly short to something in the car if it fell off and bounced around. The heat shrink is slipped over the mated connector and shrunk in place so the connector can easily mate and unmate without interference. The exposed metal is minor and the connector should have no reason to flail around; it should be fixed to the existing wiring harness plugged into the instrument cluster far from other exposed metal. 
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intocoasters
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« Reply #100 on: April 23, 2009, 07:36:17 PM » |
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Just get Steve's "jumper plug" and you won't have to change out the pins
LOL  Yes, I definitly have one of those now!
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mvaldes
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« Reply #101 on: April 24, 2009, 05:27:43 PM » |
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Thanks John,
I never would have guessed that was the part that separated. It must have been one hell of a bump that someone hit!
Since I did follow your directions and connected the LED lead to the wiring harness I won't be in any hurry to pull out the cluster. But, if I have it out to do something else, I'll try to remember to put a little heat shrink around the connector.
-Michael
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gio6666
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« Reply #102 on: July 11, 2009, 04:46:04 PM » |
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Installed the control unit and John's LED kit, everything is working great. Thanks!
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John_H
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« Reply #103 on: July 11, 2009, 06:37:11 PM » |
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Woo Hoo !! Happy Cruisin' 
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John_H
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« Reply #104 on: September 10, 2009, 03:45:18 PM » |
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I'm taking a brief hiatus from the LED kit offering while I move cross-country. I should be able to offer the kits again in October but may have something a little better/cleaner a short while after that. Watch for news.
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