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Author Topic: How to program your V2.00 cruise control via onboard switches  (Read 549 times)
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« on: October 20, 2009, 10:54:05 AM »


           
If you are unfamiliar with the 2.00 Firmware announcement, please read "Version 2.00 Beta Firmware Update Ready"
   
 
Note that all settings selectable by switches are also selectable by ScanGauge.
 
When we first developed the cruise control, we figured there might be a time in the future where some selectable settings might be handy, so we included a bank of switches on the circuit board for that purpose.  In previous versions they were unused but with the new 2.00 firmware they can be used for two purposes:
     
  • Select whether or not the last set speed is retained in memory after the car is powered down.  Default setting is to not remember.
  • Select one of 16 pedal maps to your liking.  Default is the 1:1 or "normal" map (or you might think of it as "no map").
"Pedal mapping", for those that aren't familiar, is the term I chose to describe how your accelerator pedal's signal can be modified to produce a different feel to your car's power delivery.  Other manufacturers misleadingly call this feature "sprint booster" or "speed booster" or similar names which imply your car is actually more powerful.  This kind of technology does not affect your car's performance in any way. However, it does change the feel of it - in some cases dramatically.  Here is a past discussion on this topic.
 
 
Accessing the onboard switches:
 
First use an appropriate phillips screwdriver to remove the four black screws which hold the lid onto the box.

 
 
Remove the lid and you can see the circuit board.
 

 
The bank of switches (as marked by a red rectangle above) probably has a piece of translucent yellow/orange protectant tape covering it that you'll probably want to remove.
 

 
Don't worry, the tape is only there to protect it from liquid used during the manufacturing process. It can safely be removed and discarded.  I find using a needle works best if you can't manage to get your fingernails in there.  Or leave it on - you can flip the switches anyway.  Here is a closeup of the switch bank with the tape removed:
 

 
You can see that the switches are marked "1" through "6" and they are all in the "ON" position from the factory.  "Off" isn't marked, but obviously it is the position away from "ON".
 
Switch #1:  On [default] = programming via ScanGauge.  Off = programming via switches.  For the below settings to have any effect, you must flip this switch to Off.
 
Switch #2:  On [default] = Set speed is cleared after car shut down.  Off = Set speed is retained.  Setting to Off means you can use Resume feature to return to the last speed even after the car has been shut down.
 
Switches #3 - 6:  These switches select which pedal map is active, as per the grid below.
 

 
The +% maps are linear adjustments to the normal map.  So choosing the +100% map, for example, means when you press your pedal down any amount, your car thinks you've pressed it twice as far.  It also means that at some point you'll reach the electronic limit of your pedal before you've reached the physical limit of it.  Once you've reached that electronic limit, pressing the pedal down further won't do anything (until you reach the kick-down portion of your pedal, which still works normally).
 
The Econo and B.O.O.H. maps are special in that they are non-linear.  The econo map requires you to press the pedal down harder at the low end of the pedal (ie. city driving) but it "catches up" quickly the further you press it.  You could say it makes your car "feel" more sluggish around town but it also gives you more precise control and potentially that can help you to save fuel.
 
The B.O.O.H map is the opposite - it makes the car feel very excitable where you barely touch the pedal to get quite a reaction.  However, further down the pedal's range it "catches down" quickly such that you have to press it a further distance at higher speeds to get a response.
 
Both of the non-linear maps have a great advantage over the linear ones in that you still have full access to the pedal's normal range.  It may be doing more or less than normal at any given point on the curve, but it is doing something. The linear ones, again, tap out at some point giving you no further response and this may feel unnatural once you've reached that point.  To give you a visual idea of what they do, I have attached a graph to this post.
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« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2010, 02:23:26 PM »

V2 is now dead.  The information contained above no longer applies.
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