Area 451 Parts Support Forum
February 04, 2012, 11:46:50 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Send this topic  |  Print  
Author Topic: Dealer Problems/Cruise Control  (Read 867 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
kwtoml

Offline Offline

Gender: Male


« on: February 13, 2010, 06:02:17 PM »

Any time I take my car in for any kind of repair, my dealer blames the problem on the cruise.

I am having an intermediate problem of no foot feed response (like it's not hooked up) if I turn the car off and restart them it usually works.  Also the Stability light in the dash comes on, it will go out after 3 restarts.  Today it did it again this time it took two restarts to get it to work and the check engine light as well as the stability light came on.  The stability light has gone out but not the check engine light.

I have order the service block, but knowing my dealer he is probably going to say the cruise has caused some other problem.

Any ideas what might be going on???????

Thank You

KWTOML
admin
Administrator

Offline Offline




« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2010, 11:02:00 AM »

Hi KWTOML.  There are two things you need to be concerned with:  first, determine if the cruise is causing your problem; and second, working with a potentially problematic (for lack of a better word) dealership.  Your best thing in both cases is to use clear logic and sound reasoning and I'll help you with that.

So, is it possible for the cruise control to be causing your problems?  YES!  You installed a piece of electronics between your pedal and your car's computer, and now you're having problem with your pedal... it is not at all unreasonable for your dealer to suspect that the new part (or installation there of) is a potential cause of the problem.  However, simply blaming that part (or installation) without proper deductive reasoning is improper and well, problematic.  So of course it is possible for the cruise to be the cause, but it is also possible that any of the following are instead:       
  • A faulty pedal
  • A faulty wiring harness
  • A faulty ECU
It could be something else, but it is likely one of those four scenarios.
 
When you take it to the dealer first though, you open yourself up to trouble because they're going to want to blame what isn't in their control (the cruise in this case).  It is the easy answer, but its also really their only option because they can't properly diagnose any of the other three without first ruling out the foreign item (the cruise).  They have a reasonable expectation that when you bring your car in for warranty repair that you provide them with the same car they provided you, and not a modified one.  Even if it turns out they're wrong and it had nothing to do with the cruise, they probably should be able to not cover the work, at least partially, under warranty because of the extra diagnostics involved by the presence of the foreign item.
 
An overwhelming truth/lesson here:  Always remove any aftermarket part that may be causing your problem before bringing the car in for warranty repair!
 
Even though you really should have done this before taking it to them in the first place, ruling out the cruise is still is going to be your best move going forward.  Here are the steps I suggest you take:
  • Install the jumper plug.  It is cheap and easy and will very quickly tell you if it is the cruise control.  If you install the jumper and if the problem goes away, then it is either:
     
    • A poor connection (ie. make sure it wasn't just not plugged in all the way)
    • A faulty cruise control (it would be only the 2nd ever, but it is possible)
    But installing the jumper can really only rule IN the cruise. It can't rule it out completely so if the problem did not go away then I would suggest continuing.
     
  • Check all the wires that you swapped for the installation. If any are loose at all then try to reseat them and test again. If the problem went away, then you have your answer.  If not, continue
  • Completely remove the wiring harness and put the ECU area entirely back to stock. If the problem goes away, then either you missed a loose connect or one or more cruise harness wires are damaged or possibly it was assembled poorly in the first place and you should get a replacement. If the problem does not go away then logically you have now ruled out the cruise control and its installation as being the problem. It is at this point that I would recommend booking a warranty repair with the dealership, keeping in mind these notes:
     
    • If you're feeling paranoid about the dealer visit, you may want to reverse the switch installation as well. However, electrically they should be able to see it isn't plugged into anything and can't be contributing to the problem, but it can't hurt to remove it from their thought process completely. Not everyone is as logical as yours truly.
    • Since you've already taken the car in and they're aware you had the cruise installed and are already inclined to blame it, they might pull the "well you/it damaged the ecu or pedal already and that's why the problem hasn't gone away" game. Frankly, it is difficult to argue that point! I know for a certainty that unless the cruise control was also defective (and we can test that easily) and somehow behaved entirely erratically, that the assertion is impossible. A complete mess of an installation could do the trick, but then its unlikely the cruise would have worked at all and your problems would likely be more numerous, but of course I haven't seen the installation result. Regardless, if you think you may not get a fair shake at your dealer, perhaps consider going to a different one?

From your description, I would actually have to say the most likely cause of your problem is a defective cruise control.  I hate to say that for obvious reasons, but being objective I would say that is, at least narrowly, the most probable scenario.  Like I said, we have had only 1 defect in the cruise electronics to date - and in that case the cruise would not function at all - but that's a phenomenal defect rate so a 2nd is probably inevitable and this initially sounds like a good candidate.  A close second most-likely problem is that you have a defective accelerator pedal.  A distant third most likely option (in my opinion) is that something is wrong with your car's ecu.  Unfortunately, there have been several cases where they've been trashing (probably) perfectly good ecus in attempts to resolve much simpler (and cheaper) issues, but I digress.

If the problem does lie with the cruise, then there's no need to get the dealership involved at all and if you do you'll rightly be on the hook for whatever bill they come up with.  No, in this case you simply need to make a warranty claim with us - which is pain free I assure you.  But if the cruise is not the problem, then you need to tread assertively yet carefully with your dealer to get satisfaction.  Taking the logical steps described above to rule out the cruise should be good enough for them, but its an unfortunate reality that dealerships (like many things in business and nature) take the path of least resistance and will look for a way to not pay for your troubles under warranty.  I wish you luck and of course we're here to provide any assistance we can, but ultimately it would be between you and your dealership to resolve.

Art
admin
Administrator

Offline Offline




« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2010, 11:11:59 AM »

PS.  PLEASE REMEMBER that when you are going through the diagnostic steps outline above that you must PROPERLY test to see if the problem exists after each step!  This is important and I forgot to mention it.  As you already know, it can take 3 restarts to see if the problem went away.  You can't just turn on the car and, if the light is still there, conclude that the problem is still there.  It may very well have been resolved but it takes time for the car to process the new system.  Conversely, if the light is gone you can't just conclude that the problem is gone because your issue may be unrelated to the step you took and only be intermittent in nature.

ALSO!!!  Just like when you installed the cruise, BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY when doing any work with the wiring!  The exception is unplugging and plugging in the cruise box itself (or the jumper plug in its place) because it is well documented that there's no harm from doing that with the battery connected but the car powered off (ie. key removed)
fschwinn

Offline Offline

Gender: Male


« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2010, 11:13:47 PM »

I have had my Area 451 Cruise Control for almost two years and it has worked trouble free all this time.  Now I can't live without it.  Now for the bad news.

Two months ago (Nov. 2010) the traction control light came on and the car lost most of its power.  After I turned it off for a minute and restarted it, all was well.  Two days later it did it again.  It did this 5-7 times over the next week until the check engine light came on and it would not reset anymore, so I took it to Smart.  It was just out of warranty, so they tagged me $170 to look at it.  The service ticket reads as follows:

Quote
Customer states check engine light on runs poor, lack of power.  Check engine and advise.
Check and confirmed customer concern of traction control light.  Performed short test on computer system found fault codes P2121 "Operation Fault of Component Sensor 1 Pedal Value Sensor" and P2138 "Values from Position Sensors of Accelerator are Implausible."  Codes most often found with use of aftermarket cruise control devices.
Removed rear cover.  Inspected and found Area 451 Cruise Control system installed on vehicle.  Determined source of fault codes at this time.  Due to modifications of wire harness unable to remove control unit.  Unplugged power source for cruise control unit.  Road tested vehicle.  No traction control warnings or check engine codes found during road test with unit disconnected.  Unable to repair or diagnose aftermarket device at this time.  With device power removed vehicle is operating normal and as designed.  Cleared all fault codes related to device.

That was 3 weeks ago.  I came to this website and found this post, however, when I tried to purchase the "jumper plug" I found the link was dead or the part was not available (I could not tell from the error message).  With the car working and me busy with other more pressing matters, I continued to drive the car without the cruise control for three weeks.  Now the traction control light came back on and the power is 1/2 again.  Then the next time I started it the check engine light came on and it is stuck like this.  The vehicle is not drivable like this.

So it is either the Area 451 Cruise Control unit or it is not.  But without the "jumper plug" I will need to remove the unit and rewire the harness back original (a real pain and costly as I paid an installer to put the unit in) before Smart can be "blamed."  Not that I am looking for someone to blame.  I understand that machines break through no one's "fault."  I just need to get the car fixed without spending $1,000 on finger pointing games. 

What do you suggest?  Sell me a "jumper plug" and see if that fixes the issue (bad unit) or if it does not bad car for Smart to fix at big expen$e.  Or does this sound straight up like a bad cruise control, the simple replacement of which will fix the issue?

Thanks in advance for your help in this matter.
admin
Administrator

Offline Offline




« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2011, 02:35:16 PM »

SmartieParts.com sold the jumper plug and I understand they are out of stock.  You should contact Steve directly for the status on that part. 

While its possible that a component on your cruise control has failed, or is failing, causing a throttle position sensor error... I have a bit of an issue with the quoted material you posted.  In particular, where they give conflicting sentences, one directly after the other: "Due to modifications of wire harness unable to remove control unit.  Unplugged power source for cruise control unit".  The only way to "unplug the power source" is to "remove the control unit".  If they unplugged the bigger plug (which includes the power source) then the car would not have run at all.  If all they did was unplug the little plug, which is just the switch, then that could not possibly have made any difference at all and any claim that it was fine afterward would either be fabricated or pure coincidence.
Quote
With device power removed vehicle is operating normal and as designed.
is directly conflicting with
Quote
Due to modifications of wire harness unable to remove control unit.

So their statements don't make a lot of sense.  With that said, it is hard for them to do their diagnostic job with an aftermarket part in play.

A jumper plug should be sufficient to satisfy you/them that the cruise is/isn't the problem.  However, if you install the jumper plug and still experience the problem then they may blame the harness because it is still foreign to them.  Ideally, I think, you should remove the harness so that it is 100% back to stock and see if the problem persists.  If it does, then it wasn't the cruise.  If it doesn't, then it likely was the cruise.

Again... I suggest you contact Steven for a jumper plug as I think that's probably the best place to start.  Or, follow the installation instructions in reverse and remove the harness completely.

Art
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Send this topic  |  Print  
 
 

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 2.0 Beta 3.1 Public | SMF © 2006–2008, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!