Attached is the official firmware package available for download in a zip archive. Included in the package are 15 hex files (these are the firmware files), a README.txt file that you really should read, a picture with a graphical representation of the various maps, and a simplified software application for using the programmer on a PC.
To use the simplified programmer on a PC, simply plug the programmer into a USB slot, plug the other end into your cruise control (access the jack by removing the cruise box lid), double click the Area451Programmer.exe application file and follow the prompts to choose the desired hex file.
If you're using a Mac or Linux then you'll still need to download the attached package for the README and hex files, you just won't need the Area451Programmer.exe application. Instead, go to
Microchip's download page, scroll down nearly to the bottom of the page where you'll find "PK2CMD V1.20" in various formats for Linux and Mac (both source code and pre-compiled binary files). I'm sorry, but I can't offer any assistance to Mac users on the specifics of how to install these applications. This is a "terminal" (command line) applications, rather than graphical. Assuming it is the same as on the PC, you want to use this command to program the cruise:
pk2cmd -P -FV1.30.X.hex -M -Z
This presumes the hex file is in the same directory as the pk2cmd program, and of course you need to replace the X with the appropriate corresponding number to the hex file you wish to use.
Accessing the programming jack and onboard switches:
First use an appropriate phillips screwdriver to remove the four black screws which hold the lid onto the box.
Remove the lid and you can see the circuit board.
The programming jack should be obvious - its the black cube that looks like a phone jack (because it is). This is where the programmer plugs into.
The bank of switches (as marked by a red rectangle above) probably has a piece of translucent yellow/orange protectant tape covering it that you'll want to remove.
Don't worry, the tape is only there to protect it from liquid used during the manufacturing process. It can safely be removed and discarded. I find using a needle works best if you can't manage to get your fingernails in there. Or leave it on - you can flip the switches anyway. Here is a closeup of the switch bank with the tape removed:
You can see that the switches are marked "1" through "6" and they are all in the "ON" position from the factory. "Off" isn't marked, but obviously it is the position away from "ON".
Switch #1: On [default] = standard pedal action. Off = alternative (mapped) pedal action. For your selected pedal map to do anything, this must be in the Off position. Otherwise, your pedal will behave as it always has.
Switch #2: On [default] = Set speed is cleared after car shut down. Off = Set speed is retained. Setting to Off means you can use Resume feature to return to the last speed even after the car has been shut down. With the default, the memory is cleared when the car powers down.
Switch #3: On [default] = Overshoot protection is enabled. Off = disabled. Overshoot protection appllies during and immediately after climbing a steep hill where the car was not able to maintain speed due to a lack of engine power. It prevents the cruise from "over shooting" the set speed after it has crested the hill. Leaving it on can result in a clumbsy sudden correction of speed in rare circumstances. Turning it off will correct this, but then you may overshoot your set speed (sometimes significantly) in hilly situations.
Switch #4-6: Unused
Any questions, problems, suggestions, etc can be discussed right here!
Art.
