Problem with switch cylinder installation.

[sparky73]

I have received my cruise control, but I cannot post in the Product Support section. So I will post here.

The product looks great, the detailed instructions were easy to follow, and the installation was fairly simple with one exception.

I had a lot of difficulty installing the new switch cylinder onto the wiper control arm. At first, I thought it wasn't lined up right. I checked the alignment, but it still took a lot of force to get it on the last 1/4". Tom B. had the same problem.

The cylinder only goes on one way so you don't have to force it too much but it does take a good press to get it on.

I was worried about damaging the button and I may have. I tried not to push on the button, as was noted in the instructions.

Caution: do not press on the button itself or you may damage it.

The first time I tried using the cruise, nothing happened and the red LED flashed continuously. I tried pulling out on the decorative cap (it is smooth), the cruise suddenly engaged and the LED stayed on. After about a mile, I tapped the brakes and it turned off. Later on, I pushed the button and the LED started flashing again.

On a second drive, I gently pried out on the decorative cap, and the LED stopped flashing. I pushed the button and the cruise worked! It works fine now, but it takes a lot of pressure to push the button in. I cannot "tap" the button. It must be pressed in a lot harder than turning on the radio. How much pressure should it take? Is anyone else having this problem? Should the switch cylinder be replaced under warranty?

[Arch]

Yep, had the same problem and Arthur and Steven were kind enough to walk me through few things. Carefully pull the cylinder off of the stalk and use a light to look down into it. See the two tabs? Those hold the "button" on. Gently push them inward and the button will spring off. If yours looks like mine did, the hole in the center of that little circuit board is too small to properly fit over the post at the end of your stalk. So when you push the cylinder on, you're also lifting the circuit board. Use a round file to make everything fit as it should and give it another go. Also, look for excess plastic from the molding process of the button. If there's any of that around its edges, clean it up as well.

Once everything fits together right, I think you'll find joy. I did.

[admin]

I have received my cruise control, but I cannot post in the Product Support section. So I will post here.

To post in the Customer Support section (where this has now been moved) you must be registered as a "customer".  That is described in this pinned post.  However, I think I will shortly change that requirement.  The idea was to distinguish between people's comments and questions that were based on guesses and speculation vs. those that had received their product.  But it seems to be throwing people off.

The product looks great, the detailed instructions were easy to follow, and the installation was fairly simple with one exception.

I had a lot of difficulty installing the new switch cylinder onto the wiper control arm. At first, I thought it wasn't lined up right. I checked the alignment, but it still took a lot of force to get it on the last 1/4". Tom B. had the same problem.

The cylinder only goes on one way so you don't have to force it too much but it does take a good press to get it on.

I was worried about damaging the button and I may have. I tried not to push on the button, as was noted in the instructions.

Caution: do not press on the button itself or you may damage it.

The first time I tried using the cruise, nothing happened and the red LED flashed continuously. I tried pulling out on the decorative cap (it is smooth), the cruise suddenly engaged and the LED stayed on. After about a mile, I tapped the brakes and it turned off. Later on, I pushed the button and the LED started flashing again.

On a second drive, I gently pried out on the decorative cap, and the LED stopped flashing. I pushed the button and the cruise worked! It works fine now, but it takes a lot of pressure to push the button in. I cannot "tap" the button. It must be pressed in a lot harder than turning on the radio. How much pressure should it take? Is anyone else having this problem? Should the switch cylinder be replaced under warranty?

Your concerns mirror those that a few others have expressed.  Rather than answer the same question a bunch of times, I'm going to write something up in a new post and link to it when I get finished.  I hope to get to it later tonight.

I will address:  The flashing LED and what it means and when;  How the button works in detail;  Manufacturing variance

[admin]

Yep, had the same problem and Arthur and Steven were kind enough to walk me through few things. Carefully pull the cylinder off of the stalk and use a light to look down into it. See the two tabs? Those hold the "button" on. Gently push them inward and the button will spring off. If yours looks like mine did, the hole in the center of that little circuit board is too small to properly fit over the post at the end of your stalk. So when you push the cylinder on, you're also lifting the circuit board. Use a round file to make everything fit as it should and give it another go. Also, look for excess plastic from the molding process of the button. If there's any of that around its edges, clean it up as well.

Once everything fits together right, I think you'll find joy. I did.

Of course I could be wrong, but I don't think that is describing the problems the original poster was experiencing.

This is what I'll discuss in manufacturing variances, but I think what you have is on the rare side... a combination of some parts slightly too big and others slightly too small culminating in the need to modify or replace your items.  For the record, we showed how to modify your unit because that might be easier and faster than waiting for replacements, especially right now because spare parts are not available.  But yes, warranty would cover manufacturing defects of the plastic parts and it would certainly be replaced as soon as possible if the situation warrants.  I don't want people getting the idea they're responsible for fixing our mistakes.